Mfuge

Sorry for not posting since I got back but not much went on for a couple of days. It is always fun to adjust back to real life after living on the road for an extended period of time but life is great! Saturday and Sunday were both spent at the lake with my oh so amazing lovely kelsey and her family where I made up for lost meals and water time. It was nice to take a couple of days off and just enjoy the comforts and spoils that we have in an everyday, "normal" life. I was itching to get out climbing sunday but everyone was busy or away so I settled for more relaxation and weight gain. Happy Birthday 'Merica!!! Anyways, this past week I have been at a camp called Mfuge doing some mission work and re-evaluating my relationship with Jesus. The week was great and I met so many great new people and also did lots and lots and lots of work. Our band, Sycamore, also got together and played one night there and brought back the crazy good times. I was also super nervous for some reason, I don't know, all this climbing I thought I would have forgotten how to play the drums. Motivated, I jammed my heart out and it actually went over surprisingly well. Overall the week was great for me and my group, relationships both physical and spiritual were mended and yes, I had the greatest track group ever!! Anyways as we are currently driving back I can't help to be super psyched about getting some climbing in! Saturday and Sunday will be most likely spent at Sandrock, having a great time and get on a couple of soon to be projects, Crucified by Love (13a), and Rant (13a). Monday me Mark and Cal will hopefully be able to head out to Fosters and I can get on Gas Chamber (12d). Ready for the weekend to come. Check back for updates.

Last Days at The New

So this last week at The New has been simply amazing. The temps were crisp in the 70's and the sun was shining. After a much needed rest day on sunday and a chance to get re-focused, we hit it hard for the next 3 days with much sending going down. Highlights included wensday doing 6 pitches of trad at Junkyard and a tuesday afternoon trip to The Cirque where brent worked proper soul (14a) and I got on Finder's Keeper's (12c). Second go on Finder's Keeper's I sent but could not clip the anchors! They stared at me, like an omen, for the next two days where I fell again trying to clip the anchors. Basically you are on a jug but slightly vertically and literally hanging one armed to clip. Our plan was to roll out thursday afternoon but I had some unfinished business in the morning. I went back to The Cirque and without warming up, got straight on Finder's Keeper's and clipped my final set of anchors of the trip! I'm SUPER psyched to come back to the south now with more strength and learning and also to be climbing again with Mark and Cal. Over all it has been truly a blessing to have been able to come up here for a month and much thanks goes out to every belay and motivation that the group at Roger's gave me. More updates to come! Here is my final ticklist of The New:

New River Gorge:

 

Finder's Keeper's - 12c

Creature - 12c

Missisippi Burning - 12b

Hourglass - 12b

Starry - 12b

The Prow - 12b

Tobacco Road - 12b

Tarbaby - 12b

Schneezal - 12a

Push - 12a (flash)

Skull in the Hole - 12a

Sausage - 11c (onsight)

Mo' Betta' Holds' - 11c

Bimbo Shrine - 11b

Oh, It's You Bob - 11b

Instant Gratification - 11b (flash)

Legacy - 11a (onsight)

Cross-Eyed and Blind - 11a (onsight)

Mr. Cute - 11a (onsight)

Barfing Butterflies - 11a (onsight)

Do It - 11a (onsight)

The Warm-up - 11a (onsight)

Realignment -10d (trad, flash)

How bout' em Apples - 10d (onsight)

The Deficit - 10d (onsight)

Boing - 10d (onsight)

Floaters - 10d (onsight)

Madmen Rule the World - 10d (onsight)

Tsunami Bob - 10d (onsight)

Kinesthetica - 10c (onsight)

Lady Punk - 10c (onsight)

First Steps - 10c (onsight)

Baby Has a Bolt Gun - 10c (onsight)

Moon Pie Deluxe - 10c (onsight)

Gun Lust - 10c (onsight)

Rapscallion's Blues - 10c (trad follow)

Timber - 10c (trad follow)

All Ears - 10b (onsight)

Talk about it - 10b (onsight)

Strong Arming the Little Guy - 10b (onsight)

Voodoo Surfing - 10b (onsight)

Springer - 10b (onsight)

Broken Vowels - 10a (trad)

The Entertainer - 10a (trad, flash)

Orange Oswald - 10a (onsight)

Trigger Happy - 10a (onsight)

She got the Bosch, I Got Drilled - 10a (onsight)

The Wanderer - 10a (onsight)

The Rico Suave Arete - 10a (onsight)

Bullocks - 5.9 (onsight)

Four Sheets to the Wind - 5.9 (trad, onsight)

New Yosemite - 5.9 (trad)

Fabulous Groupies - 5.9 (onsight)

Hippie Dreams - 5.9 (onsight)

Souled Out - 5.9 (onsight)

Chunko Goes Bowling - 5.9 (onsight)

Flight of the Gumbie - 5.9 (onsight)

Celtic Sun - 5.9 (onsight)

Geisha Girl - 5.8 (trad, onsight)

Mrs. Fields Follies - 5.8 (trad, onsight)

Final Week

As my time here at The New is winding down, I have taken time to look back at how great this month has been. After a rest day today, I will be here for 4 more days to climb and crush, well...hopefully. I took some time away yesterday and climbed some fun classic slabs in the afternoon and went to a camping spot down by the Cunard River for an evening swim. The mountains here are unbelievable. Last night I also put together a ticklist of my sends for the month. Right now its at 52 routes and rolling.

New River Gorge:

Creature - 12c

Missisippi Burning - 12b

Hourglass - 12b

Starry - 12b

The Prow - 12b

Tobacco Road - 12b

Tarbaby - 12b

Schneezal - 12a

Push - 12a (flash)

Skull in the Hole - 12a

Sausage - 11c (onsight)

Mo' Betta' Holds' - 11c

Bimbo Shrine - 11b

Oh, It's You Bob - 11b

Legacy - 11a (onsight)

Cross-Eyed and Blind - 11a (onsight)

Mr. Cute - 11a (onsight)

Barfing Butterflies - 11a (onsight)

Do It - 11a (onsight)

How bout' em Apples - 10d (onsight)

The Deficit - 10d (onsight)

Boing - 10d (onsight)

Floaters - 10d (onsight)

Madmen Rule the World - 10d (onsight)

Tsunami Bob - 10d (onsight)

Kinesthetica - 10c (onsight)

Lady Punk - 10c (onsight)

First Steps - 10c (onsight)

Baby Has a Bolt Gun - 10c (onsight)

Moon Pie Deluxe - 10c (onsight)

Gun Lust - 10c (onsight)

Timber - 10c (trad follow)

All Ears - 10b (onsight)

Talk about it - 10b (onsight)

Strong Arming the Little Guy - 10b (onsight)

Voodoo Surfing - 10b (onsight)

Springer - 10b (onsight)

Broken Vowels - 10a (trad)

Orange Oswald - 10a (onsight)

Trigger Happy - 10a (onsight)

She got the Bosch, I Got Drilled - 10a (onsight)

The Wanderer - 10a (onsight)

The Rico Suave Arete - 10a (onsight)

Bullocks - 5.9 (onsight)

Fabulous Groupies - 5.9 (onsight)

Hippie Dreams - 5.9 (onsight)

Souled Out - 5.9 (onsight)

Chunko Goes Bowling - 5.9 (onsight)

Flight of the Gumbie - 5.9 (onsight)

Celtic Sun - 5.9 (onsight)

Geisha Girl - 5.8 (trad, onsight)

Mrs. Fields Follies - 5.8 (trad, onsight)

Rainy Dayz

So the past couple of days have been rainy at The New. Yesterday we took a rest day due to the morning rain followed by the hot afternoon sun which made for a hot and humid afternoon. Today's plan was to get back on Lactic Acid Bath but the entire cave was seeping. Two yellow jacket stings and a hike out later, me and Audrey were on the search for dry rock. We headed down the cirque at Endless Wall where Audrey was looking to get on Hourglass (12b). After sussing out some beta I went for a flash attempt and almost stuck the slab dyno at the top! I was super psyched at getting so close that all of the mess from earlier today was forgotten. With the thunder and wind starting to pick up I made quick work and sent it second go. As I untied and was beginning to pull the rope, the clouds broke loose on us. It POURED. After an epic hike/run on the trail, including a slip-n-slide in one section, we got back to the car soaked. Back at Roger's was more chill time and working on school. Currently I am finishing my school work at Dairy Queen the best wifi/ice cream/local color around. Great times are being cherished up here as we leave in a week to go back to the good old south. More updates to come!

Lactic part 1

Sorry for not updating the past week. Some new stuff has been going down and the weather has been amazing! Highlights from the past couple of days is being close on both Shaken but not stirred (12d) and yesterday on Lactic Acid Bath (12d). Yesterday on Lactic I fell getting into the kneebar after the crux and was going to get back on it today but a storm came in last night and now the hole is sweating. Today I think we are heading back out to Third Butress were I can get back on and do Shaken but not Stirred and get my first 12d! Get Psyched!

Routes are ticking

Wow what a great week it has been so far up here. Many new routes have been sent and I am getting more psyched than ever on climbing. I know I have been lacking in updates but the past couple of days have been long and hard, especially yesterday. Wednesday we headed back out to first butress again with audrey and ryan both working their projects while I warmed up on a really good ten and onsighted this fun and bouldery 11c. I then headed over to the third butress where I got on Skull in the Hole (12a) and went for the onsight but once again fell on the final move. It actually took me another burn until I sent it third go thankfully. Thursday we headed out with a part rest day part climbing. We went down to kaymoor and did two or three amazing moderate arete routes there. I decided to end after only 3 routes to head back and finish up some school work. I absolutely hate English 102. It could be the worst class on this earth along with my professor. If I could only describe to you the monotonous and unexciting nature of the so called "stories" that I have to put my self through. I think I am going to be an author if thats what people actually read. Anyways, friday we woke up early and headed out at 8 to the first butress again where I had my sights set on creature (12c). I had no intentions on doing it that day but after giving it one go I could tell my body was tired. Second go I gave it everything I had and next thing I know I am at the anchors. Funny how mental climbing could be. I was pretty much set for the day and could have gone home but ryan fortunately kept pushing me. He put me on Starry (12b) which climbs out of this huge 100 foot overhang with a full on huck for a jug at the top. I pulled off the ground again not knowing if I was going to be able to climb ten more feet let alone even finish the route. After taking advantage of every rest opportunity and a little VENGA! at the top, I sent.  Ok my day is done right? wrong. One last route, The prow (12b). Same thing but with a little more dynamic move at the top. After one go on it I could barely hold on to anything. I gave all I had second go and fell toward the top, so physically exhausted I could barely pull up on the rope to try the move again. Ryan was dragging too but he still had to finish one route before the days end, actually, the day was already over. He sent the route in almost moon light! Such a sick finish to the day, we finally, 14 hours later, hiked out. Today was a much needed rest day. School work of course then a nice run in the afternoon. Yeah, it poured rain right when I began to run but it was aaaaaaawwwsome. I ended up hiding out under a bridge when it began to flood the trail I was on. Then it stopped. After some much needed swimming I headed back to my home, the all amazing fayettville walmart, to cook some grub and get sleep for tomorrow. More updates to come as hopefully I will get on Latic Acid Bath tomorrow! Here are two pictures I got from my run today. The big bridge is the new river bridge, and the small is the bridge I camped out under during the storm.

Back again

Well although this past weekend was pretty entertaining, eventful, and even scary; it's good to be back at The New. It was good to go back home after the car situation; and it was also good to see kelsey and my family. I also had to come back to rescue michael too when he fell free soloing sunday I guess too. But anyways it is heating up here a bit but sending is still definitely going down. Today me, Ryan, Megan, and Audrey headed out to the upper meadow to run on some classics and good times. I warmed up with this killer mixed route, Floaters (10d), which followed this smooth orange arete for a full 80 feet. Next up was a relaxing onsight of Cross-Eyed and Blind (11a), which followed a slightly overhanging face with big moves in-between. My next route of choice was supposed to be Push (12a), but for some reason, probably from beginning to be baked in the moving sun, I clipped the bolt that branched off right to Boomerang (13a). This ultra-classic route follows this long overhanging face with an excited dyno crux off of the boomerang hold. After getting a nice whip on that I headed over the second buttress where the mega classic Schneezal (12a), caught my attention. I was going for the onsight but at the 3rd bolt I find the nastiest, mankiest holds ever. I come down and was pretty much done for the day but ryan went for the onsight and past the wet section and was cruising to the top about 80 feet up when I see him flail. He ended up taking a 30 foot whipper and was pretty upset that he was cruising the onsight and a hold broke. He sent it second go easily and after a renewed confidence, I sent it third go, including the 15 feet then totally becoming de-motivated on the route. I am really psyched to see how much I have progressed over the past year of climbing and how much more calm and relaxed I am on routes. Exciting things to come as we head back tomorrow!

Worst Day EVER (well...almost)

The past two days have been epic. I would go into full detail but I just typed it all out and the computer erased it. everything. basically I went to summersville lake for a full day of crushing and got some revenge on tobacco road (12b). I blew the final crux move on the onsight the other day but i sent it first go yesterday. Due to the humidity and rain, everything began to sweat and my onsight dreams of narcissus (12a) were crushed. I did however make significant progress on apollo reed, only 2 hanging it and falling while going to the anchors! Super tired and with the rock basically unclimbable, we leave early to a pleasant surprise in the parking lot. Both front tires completely flat. I change one and drive down the road to the nearest service station. I have roadside assistance with my insurance and got a tow and was maybe just thinking a plug for the tires? no. After all everything is closed and I'm nowhere, in the middle of nowhere. no cell service. thats not too bad. Until we show up to the body shop/junkyard/mudpit/trailer park where I will be spending the night in my injured house. Not to bad. Until I am informed that the power will be shut off in thirty minutes after the shop opens for some line maintenance all day. They end up having a generator and 2 hours and 2 new tires later I am off on the road. I drive all the way back to bama and I am exhausted. 2 days of college orientation and then I'm back at the new for the rest of the month. Get psyched! Below are pictures of the whip:

Past Couple of Days

The past couple of days have been completely different from any climbing days I have had in the past.  Monday we hit it hard and I warmed up with a nice onsight of the super classic line, Legacy (11a) at Endless Wall. Brent got some amazing pictures, posted below, and some really good climbing went down. We headed over to mississippi burning (12b) and I sent it on the second go. It was on a really amazing golden arete, different than anything I have climbed and also first 12 at the New!  Today I woke up and was ready to climb hard when all of the sudden everyone was wanting to take a light day. I was pretty down on the fact that I wasn't going to be sending anything hard but we were doing some trad and I got psyched! It was only my second day of trad climbing but I ended up sending this amazing finger crack called broken vows (10a). I am starting to understand trad more and more now and it has definitely given me a new perspective on climbing. The cliff line was really obscure and not many people have ever climbed there but the routes and the scenery off of the top is indescribable. And my 70 meter barely made it down! Overall an amazing day but tomorrow looks good to tick some more 12s and possibly get closer to sending apollo reed.

Endless Wall

Yesterday I took a much deserved rest day and did some exploring at a new wall called endless wall. I started out the morning finishing up some school work and relaxing. It was raining on and off, pretty dreary day but nice day for a trail run. I started out at the Kaymoor trail head and ran to the Fayettville town park, about an 8 mile epic. I stopped as this amazing suspended bridge and I ended up taking a loop in this rainforest area. It was raining the whole time but the canopy of the trees kept me nice and cool, pretty tranquil for a rest day. We hiked to endless wall in the afternoon and saw some phenomenal routes. Quintessential is probably the sickest route in the new and follows this gorgeous orange face. We are heading back out there today to run on some classic 12's and maybe a photog opportunity or two.  Many updates to come tonight, as we set out today on a mission.

Progress

The past couple of days have been very busy for me. I finally learned how to trad climb on thursday on a couple of moderates. Its amazing to me how mental climbing can be. It was on a 5.8, easy angle route but the feeling of placing your own protection for the first time and not knowing wether or not those pieces will hold is exhilarating. Friday Audrey, who is also here for a month, showed up and we headed back out to the orange oswald wall to tick off some moderates. I took it easy for the first couple then got on the only route I had not done on the wall which was a one star 11, and it had one star for a reason. The beginning was fun but the top gave way to dirty, small, and thin holds. I could begin to feel my fingers swelling a bit while I was lowering off but didn't pay much attention to it. We then headed over to the coliseum, which held the route of the day, reckless abandon (12a). It was positioned beautifully right off the edge of the cliff to where you felt like you were climbing over the lake itself.  The beginning was great but the top gave way to more small crimping holds. As I began the sequence my left hand was locked on this thin crimp, not a good idea. I could feel all of my top knuckles bending backwards as I began to make the move. Pop! and I fell. The pain was intense, I pulled back up and finished the route but I began to feel what 3 days of climbing in a row can do to you. I iced and took ib proffen that night and the swelling did go down, just sore in the morning. I was debating on wether or not to take a rest day saturday, but we were heading back to the lake and I needed to climb. I onsighted a couple more tens at the gun wall that I had left and then made my way to the coliseum. A group of people were working on Apollo Reed and I joined in for a bit. I then moved down to Tobacco Road (12b). I felt so relaxed and fluid on the route and pulled the crux but couldn't stick the final move on the onsight. Every go after that became progressively worse and I began to get really down on myself. I took a little swim, relaxed and got back on apollo reed to work out the bottom crux. To my surprise I pulled it and the dyno after, real progress for the day. Rest day today, catch up on school work, and enjoy the beautiful weather that west virginia has to offer.

Fresh Beginnings

The trip so far has been simply amazing. I finally arrived, after driving through two mountain tunnels, to the small town of Fayetteville, west virginia. First stop was the local climbing shop, waterstone outdoors, to pick up a new guidebook for the area. by the way, the new guidebook is sick! anyways, I then tried to figure my way to the small dot of hico, west virginia, which would hold as my home for the next month. After much confusion, I arrived at Ray's Campground and went in to talk to my soon to be boss, or so I thought. She said that they have had a slow summer so far and that she doesn't know if she would have that much work for me now and that I should go check out class IV, a rafting/camping/mega shoobie complex. Her advice served good though as I went there and got an interview with the grounds keeping crew for a couple of days. Mainly splitting wood. I then proceeded to go to walmart to pick up a few food things, which turned out to be quite interesting. I learned that there are rednecks everywhere, and they get better the farther up north. To put it in perspective, if the collinsville trade day and the world biggest flea market/fireworks store had a baby, that would be the Fayettville walmart. Anyways I then went back to Ray's and they were super nice people in not only getting me a job but also for staying the night for free. It's so nice to camp in the quiet, and also to take 2 hot showers, and have electric hookup.  After being spoiled I woke up early, packed, and headed off to meet with the "Bear." Surprise! the "Bear" was a woman. After talking to her, I pretty much had the rest of the day to myself, to climb. As I stared at the guidebook trying to find the most crowded place, as I was flying solo today, I decided on the summersville lake area. I pulled into the parking lot around 9:30 and was the lone car. I begin to start making lunch for the day and finally a group of two couples from utah showed up. I began talking with them and ended up heading down with them to the orange oswald wall. I cannot begin to explain how beautiful this area is. I was literally ten feet from the lake shore and all of the climbs were exposed with only the lake at your back. My whole goal for the day was to get on some super fun, super easy, and meet some good people. I would say that I was truly blessed to have climbed there and as much as I did. I have two pictures of the view from this area to post but sorry for not taking pictures, I too obsessed in this beauty. Anyways, I then headed over to the coliseum area, right next to the lake, which reminded me a lot of my home in little river canyon. This huge roof housed my project for the trip, Apollo Reed (13a), and also a sweet little cliff and swimming area. I met up with some people I had met at waterstone, which was nice to see a happy familiar face. I then caught a belay from some north carolina locals on some classic 10s and even onsighted this 30 foot boulder problem, Do it (11a). I then caught an evening swim and headed over to this free camping area I had heard about at the base of the lake. As I begin to cook dinner, a familiar face from the day came over and talked, taking away the loneliness that the night had brought. They were both from Pennsylvania and  also let me borrow some of their ice. I ended up going over and talking to them during dinner. We begin to talk about trad, traditional, climbing and they even invited me to run along with them tomorrow. That brings me to this morning where as I now sit, ready to embark on another day of the greatest place on earth, the New River Gorge.

Here is a list of the Routes for the day:

Orange Oswald Wall:

Orange Oswald 10a-onsight

Barfing Butterflies 11a-onsight

Moon Pie Deluxe 10c-onsight

She Got the Bosch, I Got Drilled 10a-onsight

Chunko Goes Bowling 9-onsight

Voodoo Surfing 10b-onsight

Strong Arming the Little Guy 10b-onsight

Baby has Bolt Gun 10c-onsight

Gun Wall:

How'Bout'em Apples 10d-onsight

All Ears 10b-onsight

The Deficit 10d-onsight

Gun Lust 10c-onsight

Do It 11a-onsight

Hello World

So as many of you know, I left for the New River Gorge yesterday. I created this blog to kind of give an insight into the world that I live in, a world of climbing. For the next month I will be living, breathing, and sleeping climbing (out of my truck, which was very very comfortable last night). Thanks to my dad for the sweet setup that we both built, and yes I will post pictures later. But anyways back to the trip. I stopped over in a rest area just south of knoxville around midnight last night and had some much needed sleep. I now only have to drive the remaining 4 hours today, which will put me there around noon. I can barely drive I am so psyched to be up there for a month that I can barely drive now. More adventures to come.