Thursday, July 1, 2010

Last Days at The New

So this last week at The New has been simply amazing. The temps were crisp in the 70's and the sun was shining. After a much needed rest day on sunday and a chance to get re-focused, we hit it hard for the next 3 days with much sending going down. Highlights included wensday doing 6 pitches of trad at Junkyard and a tuesday afternoon trip to The Cirque where brent worked proper soul (14a) and I got on Finder's Keeper's (12c). Second go on Finder's Keeper's I sent but could not clip the anchors! They stared at me, like an omen, for the next two days where I fell again trying to clip the anchors. Basically you are on a jug but slightly vertically and literally hanging one armed to clip. Our plan was to roll out thursday afternoon but I had some unfinished business in the morning. I went back to The Cirque and without warming up, got straight on Finder's Keeper's and clipped my final set of anchors of the trip! I'm SUPER psyched to come back to the south now with more strength and learning and also to be climbing again with Mark and Cal. Over all it has been truly a blessing to have been able to come up here for a month and much thanks goes out to every belay and motivation that the group at Roger's gave me. More updates to come! Here is my final ticklist of The New:

New River Gorge:

 

Finder's Keeper's - 12c

Creature - 12c

Missisippi Burning - 12b

Hourglass - 12b

Starry - 12b

The Prow - 12b

Tobacco Road - 12b

Tarbaby - 12b

Schneezal - 12a

Push - 12a (flash)

Skull in the Hole - 12a

Sausage - 11c (onsight)

Mo' Betta' Holds' - 11c

Bimbo Shrine - 11b

Oh, It's You Bob - 11b

Instant Gratification - 11b (flash)

Legacy - 11a (onsight)

Cross-Eyed and Blind - 11a (onsight)

Mr. Cute - 11a (onsight)

Barfing Butterflies - 11a (onsight)

Do It - 11a (onsight)

The Warm-up - 11a (onsight)

Realignment -10d (trad, flash)

How bout' em Apples - 10d (onsight)

The Deficit - 10d (onsight)

Boing - 10d (onsight)

Floaters - 10d (onsight)

Madmen Rule the World - 10d (onsight)

Tsunami Bob - 10d (onsight)

Kinesthetica - 10c (onsight)

Lady Punk - 10c (onsight)

First Steps - 10c (onsight)

Baby Has a Bolt Gun - 10c (onsight)

Moon Pie Deluxe - 10c (onsight)

Gun Lust - 10c (onsight)

Rapscallion's Blues - 10c (trad follow)

Timber - 10c (trad follow)

All Ears - 10b (onsight)

Talk about it - 10b (onsight)

Strong Arming the Little Guy - 10b (onsight)

Voodoo Surfing - 10b (onsight)

Springer - 10b (onsight)

Broken Vowels - 10a (trad)

The Entertainer - 10a (trad, flash)

Orange Oswald - 10a (onsight)

Trigger Happy - 10a (onsight)

She got the Bosch, I Got Drilled - 10a (onsight)

The Wanderer - 10a (onsight)

The Rico Suave Arete - 10a (onsight)

Bullocks - 5.9 (onsight)

Four Sheets to the Wind - 5.9 (trad, onsight)

New Yosemite - 5.9 (trad)

Fabulous Groupies - 5.9 (onsight)

Hippie Dreams - 5.9 (onsight)

Souled Out - 5.9 (onsight)

Chunko Goes Bowling - 5.9 (onsight)

Flight of the Gumbie - 5.9 (onsight)

Celtic Sun - 5.9 (onsight)

Geisha Girl - 5.8 (trad, onsight)

Mrs. Fields Follies - 5.8 (trad, onsight)

1 comment:

  1. sick man! really fun climbing with you. Nice job on the Hale marry send of "finders keepers".

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