Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Back again

Well although this past weekend was pretty entertaining, eventful, and even scary; it's good to be back at The New. It was good to go back home after the car situation; and it was also good to see kelsey and my family. I also had to come back to rescue michael too when he fell free soloing sunday I guess too. But anyways it is heating up here a bit but sending is still definitely going down. Today me, Ryan, Megan, and Audrey headed out to the upper meadow to run on some classics and good times. I warmed up with this killer mixed route, Floaters (10d), which followed this smooth orange arete for a full 80 feet. Next up was a relaxing onsight of Cross-Eyed and Blind (11a), which followed a slightly overhanging face with big moves in-between. My next route of choice was supposed to be Push (12a), but for some reason, probably from beginning to be baked in the moving sun, I clipped the bolt that branched off right to Boomerang (13a). This ultra-classic route follows this long overhanging face with an excited dyno crux off of the boomerang hold. After getting a nice whip on that I headed over the second buttress where the mega classic Schneezal (12a), caught my attention. I was going for the onsight but at the 3rd bolt I find the nastiest, mankiest holds ever. I come down and was pretty much done for the day but ryan went for the onsight and past the wet section and was cruising to the top about 80 feet up when I see him flail. He ended up taking a 30 foot whipper and was pretty upset that he was cruising the onsight and a hold broke. He sent it second go easily and after a renewed confidence, I sent it third go, including the 15 feet then totally becoming de-motivated on the route. I am really psyched to see how much I have progressed over the past year of climbing and how much more calm and relaxed I am on routes. Exciting things to come as we head back tomorrow!

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